Is it? Adventures along the Wild Coast of South Africa

This will be the first post in a series of three that attempts to encapsulate my 2 ½ week bonanza around Southern Africa for the 2010 holiday season. Armed with a backpack, bathing suit, map, my travel partner, Maxime, and boundless energy we hit the road, or rather the sky on December 19^th, 2010. Rather than bore you all with a play-by-play itinerary here are a few snapshots of the beauty that is the wild coast of South Africa and the blessing that was my vacation:

Coffee bay, South Africa. Coffee Bay is a backpacker’s haven and with a name like that it definitely put a spring in my step…I was ready to rock n’ roll, naturally this meant hiking. There is a trail that follows the jagged coast from the town of Coffee Bay to a “hole in the wall,” a rock formation that happens upon you as you emerge from an overgrowth of trees. Cliffs and rough seas characterize the landscape of the hike, with the trail appearing and disappearing every so often allowing you to feel as though you are exploring the rolling hills that morph into cliffs and fall into the ocean. In front and behind no one is in sight, until you happen upon a beach. A small stretch of pristine sand with donkeys or cows who have staked their claim to the prime tanning spots long before you even had a moment to think about laying out for the day. Two or three of these beaches intermittently emerge as you come to The Hole. The “hole in the wall” is stunning. The water crashes against the rock and bellows within the open-ended cave (the hole) that it has eroded (did I mention that erosion is the best natural force there is!!!) within a wall of rock that exists about 15 meters out to sea. Appreciating the power that is the sea and the majesty of the natural purity we relaxed in the sun, snapped some photos, and rejoiced in our freedom.

Port St. Johns, South Africa. Where the river meets the sea there is a doodle. As if someone, God presumably, took his brush and decided ok here is where the river running brown ends and the deep ocean blue begins. An aerial view provides a fine brushstroke squiggle of brown and blue that inclines you to imagine what is going on beneath the surface. Port St. Johns is an eclectic mix of brown and blue, resort and rustic, obvious and hidden, prawns and smoothies. A spot filled with health and hours lounging at the beach.

Durban, South Africa. Bunny Chow. Three guesses to tell me what it is…Strike 1, Strike 2, Strike 3- your out, but only because you didn’t get to eat Bunny Chow in the Bunny Chow capital of the world. Durban has the highest population of Indians in the world, therefore they obviously have some of the best Indian Curry in the world. This is exactly what Bunny Chow is, except that it is curry stuffed into half a loaf of bread. Delicious! This was our Christmas Day meal and it was the perfect partner to the rainy day. Post Bunny Chow, the Botanical Gardens seasoned our palates. Colors bursted forth from pots, ponds, and perches…and the orchids, SO many orchids living a happy life. The culture of a garden is always elegant and dainty. You are weary of where you step, careful to appreciate each any every plant. I welcome the active consciousness of the world around you- the tiny oasis amidst concrete and pavement.

For now I will leave you in the Johannesburg airport at the Mugg & Bean on the 2^nd floor. This international airport has weaseled its way into my memory box and will eternally be the place that I spent the night on Christmas Day.